Frequently Asked Questions

The list below should answer most of your questions. If you can't find an answer here, please send your question using the form on our contact page.

General Questions

General capabilities.   Updated January 26, 2022

  • Bag Sizes - We make film from 3" to 30" wide, in thicknesses between 0.60 mil and 6.0 mil
  • Printing - Up to six spot colors (combined front to back - 6 colors on one side, 3 colors each side, etc)
  • Film Colors - Over two dozen film colors to choose from 
  • Turnaround Time - Most orders ship within 2 to 3 weeks of art approval. - NOTE - CURRENT LEAD TIME IS UP TO 10 WEEKS
  • Minimum Order - Our minimums are between 3000 and 20,000 bags, depending on specifications. Minimum order also varies based on bag size and thickness, as well as number of print colors.  In general, we need to run at least 100 lbs of film per order. Multiple color print will also require higher minimums, due to setup processes. 
  • Rush Orders - Due to high demand. we can no longer offer complimentary rush processing. All rush orders will incur a fee of $250 or 5% of total order cost, whichever is higher.

All bags are custom made to your client's specifications. 


The short answer is no, we can't provide custom film color matches. We do offer nearly 30 different standard colors of film, in both HDPE and LDPE, so most customers can find a color that works for their bags.

We do not provide custom film matches due to the complexity of color matching. Colored films are made by adding color concentrate (in pellet form) to white or natural resins. All our color concentrates are supplied to us ready to add to the resin. Mixing these concentrates may seem like a simple solution for making custom colors, but formulating the right mix is very time consuming and involves a lot of trial and error - and waste. Custom colors also create issues with reorders, even when we know the formula. From time to time dye-lots change, and even a slight change when mixing colors based on a formula can throw off the color of the match. 

Visit our Film Colors page to see all the colors we offer, downlonad our line card (PDF), or contact us to request film color samples. 

Bags measurements are expressed as the entire width x height (9x12, 15x18, etc) of the flattened bag. If bag has side gussets, the measurement is written as Width x Gusset x Height (12x7x22 is a standard T-shirt bag). If bag has a bottom gusset, the measurement is written as Width x Height + Gusset Width (15x18+4"BG for instance).

It's important to understand that bags with side gussets always have a bottom seal, and bags with bottom gussets will have a side seal. 

Bottom Seal bags are sealed between 1/4" and 1/2" from the very bottom of the bag, while side sealed bags are sealed at the very side edges. 

The height of the bag is measured from the very bottom of bag to the very top, except for Soft Loop Handle bags where the handle is attached and not included in the height measurement. 


If your bag needs to hold a specific sized item, please let us know so that we can make sure the bag is sized correctly


  • All Dimensions are approximate. Length and width of bag vary within 1/2" ±. Larger bags can vary by as much as 1"
  • Gauge (mil) can vary by up to 10% ± from order to order and/or within the same order.
  • Film and Ink colors may vary from order to order and/or within the same order.
  • For multiple color prints, ideal trapping is 1/16" or greater. Image will shift slightly from bag to bag. 
  • Two sided print alignment can vary by up to 1" front to back.
  • Artwork with screens will be printed at 35 LPI. Uneven ink coverage may result due to dot gain. 
  • Colors on proofs are approximate and may not display accurately on monitors or desktop printers. Inks are matched to Pantone PMS colors. 

While we try to keep overruns and underruns to a minimum, the production process has multiple steps, and the setup time and scrap produced for each step cannot be accurately predicted. This is due to the multiple steps process of extruding, printing, and converting bags, 

Steps to making bags

There are three basic steps to creating your bag, all of which require separate setup routines and create scrap material. All scrap is sent to a recycling center to be converted back into resin.  Here are the steps:

  1. Extruding the film – bags start as small pellets of resin, which are melted in an extruder and blown into a tube that matches the specifications for each order. The film passes through several rollers as it cools and is then flattened and wound on a large roll, ready to print. Scrap is created as the adjustments are made to create the correct film specifications.
  2. Printing – The roll of extruded film is then placed on a printing press. Press setup time and scrap created varies based on the number of colors being printed. Aligning printing plates to assure proper position can be very time consuming. 
  3. Converting – Once printed, the roll of film is moved to a converting machine that seals, cuts, and adds handles onto individual bags, which are then boxed up and prepared for shipping. 

Overruns and underruns are one of the most misunderstood part of the manufacturing process. It's tempting to look at it similarly to printing copies on your desktop printer. If you need 200 copies, you print 200 copies. Manufacturing isn't quite as simple, and adds some unknowns into the equation. 

In a manufacturing environment, overruns and underruns are quite common. There are three main steps in making bags - blowing the film, printing the film, and converting it into individual bags. All three of those steps require setup which creates waste. For instance, to produce 20,000 bags, we need to have enough printed film to cut those bags, plus some extra to set up the job, and in case of misprints that are discarded at this step. So we need to print quite a few more than 20,000 impressions. To print enough film for any given job, we need extra blank film in order to set up the printing press. So we need to blow enough extra film to account for printing setup, converting setup, and possible misprints. The raw material for the film is in pellets of plastic resin that are weighed out in an amount that is approximately enough to make enough bags, plus a little bit. Extruding the film can also result in small variances in bag width and thickness, which also affects overruns. 

So making an exact number of bags is nearly impossible, and the over/under run percentage is not predictable. 

Information about our overrun policy is on our terms and conditions page.

American Plastic takes pride in being able to offer minimums as low as 3,000 bags, but depending on the specs of the bag, that minimum can end up being as high as 20,000.  The reasons for this mainly have to do with setup times, labor, and waste. 

Setup for all jobs takes about the same amount of time, regardless of the size of the bag. There are three basic steps involved in making bags: extruding film, printing, and converting individual bags. 

Extruding Film - This involves loading an extruder with raw resin, melting it, and blowing it into a tube of the specified width and thickness. Before being wound on a roller, the blown film needs to be threaded through a set of rollers, and adjustments made to width and gauge of the film. This process is the same no matter how much material we are making. So for smaller orders, the percentage of setup time compared to the whole run is much higher. On larger runs, the setup time is a very small percentage of the time it takes to run a job.

Printing - Printing setup is also time consuming, and that multiples for each ink color added. Many one color jobs can be printed inline, as the film comes off the extruder, but for bags printed offline, or with more than one color, the film is transferred to a separate printing press. Each color requires its own printing plate, attached to a printing cylinder. Usually workers need to change out the print cylinders to match the bag size being made. The only way to register multiple colors so that they line up correctly is to print some film and make final adjustments as it runs through the press. Running a six color job can require hours of setup time, which makes smaller runs very impractical. 

Converting - The final step in making bags is moving the printed (or unprinted) film to a machine that cuts, seals, and stacks the bags. There is setup time required to wind the film through the converter, adjust digital print sensors, and ensure seals line up properly. 

General rules of thumb on minium orders: 

  • Total weight needs to be at least 100 lbs to justify the setup processes involved.
  • Printing multiple colors will increase minimums
  • Larger, thicker bags have lower minimums than small, thin bags

Because of the complexity of the manufacturing process, we may refuse to quote some jobs if we are unable to offer a competitive price. 


If unsure of the size of bag you need, feel free to contact us for help.

To calculate the size of bag needed, start by measuring the items going into the bag.

Here's some basic math: 

  • Bags can have gussets either in the side or bottom, but not both.
  • For a bag without side gussets, the circumference twice the width. A 12" wide bag has a 24" circumference. (12+12)
  • Bags WITH side gussets have a circumference twice the width, plus twice the gusset. A 12" wide bag with 7" gussets has a 38" circumference. (12+12+7+7)

The circumference of the bag should be larger than the circumference of the items going in the bag.  This is generally only a concern when there is a specific size object needing to be bagged. 

A box that is 9" long and 6" wide has a circumference of 30". (9+9+6+6=30). Half of 30 is 15, so a 15" wide bag would fit perfectly, but best to get a slightly larger bag, around 16", to make sure the item fits. This same box would fit in a side gusseted bag, like a 10x6x22 (10+10+6+6 = 32" circumference) 

Bottom gussets in bags will help the bag sit flat when expanded, but do not increase the circumference of the bag. for that same 9x6 box, a 16" wide bag with a bottom gusset of 6" will hold the boxes nicely. 

We are unable to make pre-production mockups or samples. We are able to provide sample bags from previous jobs that have the same (or similar) film color, thickness, and bag style.

Pre-production samples (basically a prototype of the finished product) are not practical. Creating a printed bag involves several steps: blowing the film, printing the film, and converting the printed film into bags. All of these steps require hundreds of feet of film to be produced. Creating a sample would require as much time and materials as running several thousand bags. 



Yes, we are happy to provide individual samples of our products.

However, because everything we make is a custom job, and that we offer a large variety of sizes, film colors, bag styles, and thicknesses, we only provide samples for specific orders.

Distributors often ask for "sample packs" containing general samples of all styles in different sizes, colors, and mils, but those are simply not practical for us to assemble, since what would be included would be a limited selection of what we can make. Our line card and website shows all the different handle sizes and film colors offered. Film swatch books that contain all of our film color options are also available to distributors. 


No. Plate charges are a one time charge. Additional charges would only apply if changes are being made to the art. We do not charge a setup fee on any orders.

Plate charges are not charged if you provide your own plates. see our FAQ page about providing your own plates. 

It may seem counterintuitive, but of all options for retail checkout bags, traditional HDPE and LDPE plastic bags come out on top. 

Plastic bags are 100% recyclable and most people reuse checkout bags for a wide number of things. From garbage bags for small trash cans, to picking up pet waste, using as travel laundry bags, or even reusing when shopping.  Studies show that "green" alternatives such as paper bags and popular reusable bag options, can actually be worse for the environment because they require more resources to produce and transport. These replacements simply have a larger carbon footprint when the entire product lifecycle is considered. Studies also show that bag bans and taxes haven’t meaningfully reduced overall litter or waste anywhere they’ve been tried. 

Every bag ordinance allows for, or even encourages, paper bag usage. But compared to plastic bags, paper can't compete environmentally. Making plastic bags requires 70% less energy and 96% less water than paper, and creates far less air pollution. Most store-bought "reusable" bags are made in other countries and shipped across the world to the US, while the vast majority of plastic checkout bags are made domestically. And those imported reusable bags may not be recyclable. Cotton bags would need to be used for over 7 years before they become a better choice than plastic. Cotton bag manufacture is also a very intense process, that involves vast amounts of water to grow and process the cotton, and potentially dangerous fertilizers and pesticides.  

The most talked about impact of plastic bags is litter, especially in marine environments. Obviously, this is a large problem, but it isn't likely to be solved by bans and restrictions on plastic bags. Studies have shown that bag restrictions have not resulted in any waste or litter reduction.  As a matter of fact, due to the heavier materials used in paper and reusable bags, landfill waste has increased. Without the availability of lightweight carryout bags, people instead purchase new, packaged bags for garbage, pet waste, and other uses. And reusable bags simply can't hold up to the usage required to be a better choice. 

Simply put, bans and restrictions on plastic carryout bags result in higher levels carbon entering the atmosphere, more waste going to landfills, and have no impact on litter. 

If you need bags in areas that have restrictions, our reusable bag options can be made to specifications that meet the requirements of most ordinances

For more detailed information about the impact of bag regulations, and links to studies, please visit the Bag the Ban website 

PCR - Postconsumer Recycled resin, is at the forefront of sustainability efforts, and yes, we are able to add PCR to your bags! Currently only available in LDPE bags. Some regulations require bags to contain up to 40% PCR, which can be done without significantly changing the look or feel of the bags. Please contact us for quotes or samples of bags made with PCR. 

No, we do not sell directly to the public. American Plastic, Mfg sells exclusively through a network of distributors. This allows us to keep our prices low by focusing on our production process. Our distributors are knowledgeable about our capabilities and product line, and can suggest products that would be well suited for your business. Please let us know if you would like more information or have questions, or if you are a bag distributor and are interested in setting up an account. 

American Plastic is not set up to accept credit cards.  All initial orders are pre-pay by check. For more information, see our terms and conditions page. 

Art Questions

All art should be submitted electronically, either through email, or by providing us a link to download the art. Contact us for information about where to send art.  


  • Vector Format Only - If art is not in vector format, we may be able to convert it. See explanation
  • Preferred file format: PDF.  Files should be unlocked. Our artists need to be able to open and make adjustments to art files. 
  • Acceptable file formats: EPS, AI (CS5 or earlier), and CDR. NOTE: If sending art in these formats, please provide a PDF proof, and convert all text to curves, and outlines to objects. 
  • File formats that will incur art charges: TIFF, JPG, PSD, and PNG bitmap image files must be converted to vector for printing.
  • Unacceptable file Formats: Word, PowerPoint, Publisher, InDesign and QuarkXPress files cannot be used
  • Printed Art received by mail or fax will need to be converted to digital vector files. Art charges will apply. 
  • All fonts must be converted to outlines (curves)  See explanation
  • Halftones and gradients are printed at 35-lpi, and should be limited to larger areas for best results.
  • Convert lines to objects - if objects have outlined edges, they should be converted into objects. The features of the outline - corners, dotted lines, thickness, etc - can shift. Thick outlines can also cause incorrect measurement of the art. Converting to a filled object will alleviate those issues. If you have questions, please Contact us 
  • TRAPPING - Film shifts up to 1/8" during printing and can cause registration issues. On multiple-color jobs, leave white space between colors if possible. If colors must overlap, trapping should extend by at least 4pt.  When setting trapping, be aware of the print order: lighter colors print first, followed by darker colors, and black will always print on top. If unsure of the order that colors will print on your job, please contact us.
  • ART CHARGES will apply if art needs to be converted to a vector file

After we receive your art, we inspect it to make sure it will print well. If we see any issues with the art, you will be contacted with information about the problem. Common issues involve embedded fonts, incorrect trapping, thin outlines, too much halftoning, and low resolution bitmaps. If you are unable to correct the issues, an art quote will be provided.

We provide a digital proof and mockup of the art in PDF format for all new orders. The PDF will show both a proof of the art at 100% size, as well as a mockup of the art on a template of the bag. Mockups and proofs are not provided for reorders except by request. 

Pre-production samples are not available. See this link for more information.



No. All proofs and mockups are provided digitally. 

Vector images are shapes and lines drawn in an illustration program (like Adobe Illustrator or CorelDraw) that have mathematical dimensions. This allows unlimited scalability without compromising the image quality. Images have smooth edges at all sizes, and file sizes much smaller than bitmap (raster) images. Common vector formats are PDF, Adobe Illustrator - AIEPS, and Corel Draw (CDR).  

While vector files are always saved in these formats, they can contain bitmap images as well. Saving a JPG image as AI or EPS or PDF does not change the image to vector. 

Bitmap images are made up of a series of individually defined pixels and have a fixed resolution. A 1” x 1” bitmap, at 300dpi, is 300 pixels wide and 300 high. Bitmap images CAN'T be made larger without losing quality. For printing, the higher the resolution of bitmap files, the better the image quality. Common bitmap formats are TIFF, JPG, GIF, PNG, BMP.

Why Vector? 

  • Vector art provides much smoother lines and edges to the art. Most bitmap images have smoothing (anti-aliasing) on the edges of the art (a slight gradient around curves to make them look smoother.)  
  • All gradients are printed at 35 lpi, which when applied to shapes with smoothing, will result in blurred/jagged edges.  

If unable to create your art in an illustration program, you will probably need to hire a graphic designer to do the work for you. We do provide design services. If you would like us to prepare the art, let us know and we will give you a quote. 

Depending on the complexity of the image, converting bitmaps to vector art can be simple or very time consuming. Many times, art can be electronically "traced" in a vector art program. Tracing doesn't work very well with small text and small details can get lost. Converting more complex, or multiple color bitmaps to vector art sometimes requires rebuilding the art from scratch – matching fonts, and redrawing lines.

Placing a bitmap into an illustration program and saving as an EPS or PDF does NOT convert the file to vector. 

We can usually convert your art for you, but art charges may apply. 

Both digital bitmap images and printed images are made up of a series of dots. The terms DPI and PPI are usually confused these days. 

  • DPI – Dots Per Inch –the resolution of a printed image, how many tiny dots of ink printed per inch. The more dots, the finer the print. 
  • PPI – Pixels Per Inch – Most times when people refer to DPI, they really mean PPI.  Simply the number of pixels per inch (vertically and horizontally) in a digital image
  • LPI – Lines Per Inch – refers to the lines of in a halftone or screen - the higher the number, the smaller the screen. These dots are not the same as those defined by in DPI. 

DPI and PPI when referring to a digital image are fairly meaningless without knowing how many inches an image is. The image resolution is determined by the number of pixels in an image. An image that is 10" wide at 300dpi is 3000 pixels wide, could also be defined as 100" at 30dpi, or 1" at 3000dpi. 

In printing, DPI is the number of dots of ink per inch, and is generally a higher number than the image PPI, and the PPI is a higher number than the LPI.

For most commercial printing applications, digital images need to be a minimum of 300 PPI at full size. If there are image areas that will be printed as halftones (not a solid color), the LPI indicates the number of lines of dots per inch. For many print applications, LPI is approximately half the number of the PPI. For the process that we use for plastic bags 35 is the maximum LPI that prints well. This produces fairly large dots compared to offset printing. As an example, most newspapers print images at around 80 LPI, and most magazines at around 150 lpi or higher.  

Below is an image of 50% gray approximating the difference between 35, 80, and 150 LPI

A font is a collection of letter defined as a specific typeface. The font file contains mathematical descriptions of the shape of each letter. Fonts can only be edited on computers where the font file is installed. PDF files can have embedded fonts, which will display and print properly, but cannot be edited by computers that don't have the font file installed. When opening the document on a machine that doesn’t have the proper font installed, programs usually substitute another font. Obviously, this can cause problems. Converting fonts to outlines disconnects the font descriptions from the letters, and prevents the shape from changing. The downside of this is that once the type is converted to outlines, it can no longer be edited as text.

To convert text to outlines, an illustration program like Adobe Illustrator or CorelDraw is required. Adobe InDesign is also capable of converting type to outlines. In Illustrator or InDesign, chose “create outlines” from the Type menu. In CorelDraw, select “Convert to Curves” from the Arrange menu. 

Printing Questions

Plastic bags are printed using a process called flexography, which uses a flexible relief plate to make imprints. Each color of the print job requires its own plate. We can print a total of up to six colors, combined between both sides of the bag. 6 colors on one side, or 3 colors on each side. 

Flexographic plates can usually be used for many years without any degradation. However, after long use, the plate surface can develop cracks which will affect print quality. When plates do develop cracks, we recommend replacing the plates. When ordering plates through us, we will replace any cracked plates free of charge. 

Our manufacturing process is fairly simple. Film is extruded by heating small resin pellets and blowing the film into a tube, which is then wound onto a large roll. The roll of film is then wound through rollers on the press where it is printed, and then rolled up again as it comes off the machine. The next step is converting the film into bags. Different converting machines make different types of bags. 

You can choose any Pantone PMS Color.  Or we can match your colors to a PMS color that is a close match. 

When creating your art, we recommend referring to a PMS guide to specify colors. 

PLEASE NOTE that printed colors may shift slightly from order to order, and within orders. While we strive for color consistency, exact color matches cannot be guaranteed. 

We will always provide a digital proof of your art in the PMS colors specified. Be aware that colors viewed on screen may not match printed colors. The actual color printed will be matched to the PMS color specifications. 


We do not offer ink drawdowns. We match all ink colors to standard Pantone PMS colors. Because of the large number of possible ink colors, accurately mixing small amounts of a ink is very time consuming, and difficult to make with precision.

Drawdowns are also applied to film differently than the printing process, so it isn't always possible to get an accurate representation of the color. 

We match all colors to standard Pantone PMS color numbers. The best method of choosing colors is to refer to a PMS color guide. We stock coated inks only, so refer to PMS "C" colors.


For more information about choosing colors, please visit our FAQ page on specifying ink colors.

If you are choosing a film color other than white, see our information about printing on colored film


Most inks - with the exception of white, black, and metallic colors - print translucent or even transparent. This causes the print to pick up the color of the film, or to disappear completely - especially on dark film. For instance, Blue ink on yellow film will become greenish, yellow ink on black film disappears completely, and red ink on beige or buff film will become burgundy. Predicting how different inks will appear on different film colors is tricky, and highly dependent on the ink formula of the chosen color. White ink looks good on dark colors, but picks up the film color slightly. On black film, white looks slightly gray, on navy blue film, white looks light blue, etc. 

We match ink colors using the Pantone PMS Formula Guide. Flexographic printing uses spot color printing, which requires mixing of different base ink colors to match the color desired. The Pantone Formula Guide provides the recipe for different color mixes. 

It is possible to make lighter colors show up on dark film, but predicting the outcome can be very tricky.

All ink colors print well on white film, so if your art has multiple, or bright, colors, the colors will always look great on white.  

If wanting to use colored film, we can assess your art and make recommendations for creating a look that will work for you. 

Yes, if you prefer to provide your own printing plates, we can usually use them with no problem. However, we highly recommend having your plates made through us. This streamlines the production process and creates far fewer headaches for you and your customers. Using third party plate makers can result in delays, and cost savings are usually minimal. Especially if plates are made to incorrect specifications, contain errors, or become unusable due to cracking.   

Advantages to having us make your plates :

  • TIME SAVINGS – Our local plate maker delivers daily, and turnaround is usually overnight. Customer provided plates can spend several days in shipping, and if plates arrive damaged, or incorrect, more delays can occur. 
  • PLATE PREPARATION – Plates are attached to printing cylinders with double sided sticky-back tape. The cost for tape and labor is included in our plate cost. If plates arrive without sticky-back tape,  there will be an additional charge for adding it to the plates. 
  • GUARANTEE – Plates made through us are guaranteed to match the art. Customer provided plates are used as-is, and while we will compare to your art, we are not responsible for plate quality or replacement if there are problems.
  • DAMAGE REPLACEMENT – Over time, plates wear out and crack, requiring replacement for future orders. If made through us, there is no charge for replacement. For customer provided plates, the customer bears costs for plate replacement.
  • QUALITY – Our art department makes sure that all art files sent to the plate maker are correctly formatted. Incorrect art files can result in text shifts, fonts changing, incorrect line screens, and trapping issues.


Plates must match the specifications listed below. If plates are made differently, we may still be able to use them, but cannot guarantee they will work on our presses.

  • 3M Cyrel .107 plate media
  • Backed with  3M 411DL sticky-back tape
  • Between .050 and .060 relief
  • 1" dead space around perimeter of image area
  • Any raised crop marks (tick marks) must be removed
  • Etched center scribe lines
  • Beveled edges
  • Halftones printed at 35 LPI
  • Provide an art proof (PDF) showing proper art positioning on bag


Customer bears responsibility for making sure plates are made correctly. American Plastic assumes no responsibility for print quality due to plate abnormalities, damage, or errors. Additional charges will apply if plates require backing or other adjustments.

Digital proof showing art position on bag MUST be submitted.


Improperly made plates can result in poor print quality or incur extra charges. Here's some common issues to be aware of.

  • Plates made from bitmapped images – may result in jagged edges on art.
  • Plates made to incorrect specifications – may result in poor print quality, or may be unusable
  • Plates made with inadequate trapping – may result in poor image quality 
  • Crop marks not trimmed off of plates –  marks will print on bag. Additional charges will apply to remove crop marks.
  • Double sided backing not attached – Backing has to be added. Additional charges will apply
  • Registration marks not included – Multiple color jobs must have centerlines on plates to avoide additional setup charges. 

Halftone screens help to achieve the look of a lighter shade, or shades, of whatever color ink is being printed. However, there are some limitations of printing art like this. 

We print halftones at 35 LPI (lines per inch), which is the maximum LPI that prints well. This produces fairly large dots compared to offset printing. As an example, most newspapers print images at around 80 LPI, and most magazines at around 150 lpi or higher

See images below for samples of how screens look when printed. 


Because of the large size of the dots used, we do not recommend printing small text or thin lines as screens. 

TEXT at 50% tint, 35 LPI

LINES - 1pt, 2pt, and 4pt - at 50% tint, 35 LPI

When using screens in your designs, it is best to use them for larger, solid areas. Screens also will look better on larger art. Just as the 4pt line above looks much cleaner than the 1pt line. 

Yes. Printing plates can generally be reused many times. It's not uncommon for plates to last for ten years or longer, and through millions of impressions. 

If the time between orders using a set of plates is longer than about 4 years, we archive the plates. After ten years past the last order date, plates are disposed of. 

We recommend ordering plates through us, although we can usually use plates made elsewhere. There are lots of advantages to order plates through us, as explained in our post about providing your own plates. Flexographic printing plates can get expensive, but will usually last for years. Eventually, plates will begin to develop cracks. If the plate was purchased through American Plastic, the replacement plate will be made at no charge. 




American Plastic Mfg., Inc. |  526 South Monroe St, Seattle, WA 98108

(888) 763-1055  |  (206) 763-1055  |  FAX (206) 763-3946

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